Built on a 70% heartleaf extract base rather than water, this lotion delivers its soothing actives as the formula's foundation rather than as trace additions. The combination of three hyaluronic acid molecular weights with ceramide NP in a silicone-free, fragrance-free base makes it unusually clean for a K-beauty moisturizer that still performs on hydration.
A genuinely soothing, no-nonsense lightweight moisturizer that earns its K-beauty cult status through a clean formula and generous sizing. Best suited for oily-to-combination and sensitive skin types who want calming hydration without any of the usual irritant suspects.
Note: While Anua has been on the market since 2019, independent clinical data on this specific formula is limited. Our scoring reflects ingredient analysis, formulation quality, and moderate real-world user feedback. As more real-world feedback arrives, this rating could move either way.
The case for it
What would change this: A researched evidence row for the lead active would replace this with a verdict.
Same rule for everyone. “Good choice” is the verdict on 1,938 of 45,024 concern verdicts across the catalog; rule F2 decided 1,938 of them. Unchanged since September 5, 2026, engine 5.1.1.
Brand or formulator? Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →
The case for it
What would change this: A researched evidence row for the lead active would replace this with a verdict.
Same rule for everyone. “Supporting role” is the verdict on 8,197 of 45,024 concern verdicts across the catalog; rule R8 decided 4,250 of them. Unchanged since September 5, 2026, engine 5.1.1.
Brand or formulator? Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →
The case for it
What would change this: A declared concentration would move this to a firmer reading of the dose.
Same rule for everyone. “Good choice” is the verdict on 9,564 of 45,024 concern verdicts across the catalog; rule R5 decided 9,072 of them. Unchanged since September 5, 2026, engine 5.1.1.
Brand or formulator? Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →
The studies behind the evidence row
The case for it
What would change this: A declared concentration would move this to a firmer reading of the dose.
Same rule for everyone. “Good choice” is the verdict on 9,564 of 45,024 concern verdicts across the catalog; rule R5 decided 9,072 of them. Unchanged since September 5, 2026, engine 5.1.1.
Brand or formulator? Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →
The studies behind the evidence row
The case for it
Cautions: fungal-acne triggers.
What would change this: A researched evidence row for the lead active would replace this with a verdict.
Same rule for everyone. “Supporting role” is the verdict on 8,197 of 45,024 concern verdicts across the catalog; rule R8 decided 4,250 of them. Unchanged since September 5, 2026, engine 5.1.1.
Brand or formulator? Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →
Does the jobDoes what a moisturizer is for: draws in water, softens and smooths.
A verdict is DermApproved’s assessment of how well a product’s ingredients fit a concern — never a claim about what the product treats. Evidence dots and collected reviews sit beside it and are never blended in. Rules 0.5.1 · evidence table ev-2026.09-r228 · how we decide
Houttuynia cordata has been pulled from ditches and forest floors across East Asia for centuries, brewed into teas and poultices by traditional herbalists who knew it as a remedy for inflammation long before anyone thought to put it in a pump bottle. Anua's bet — building an entire skincare brand around this single botanical — was either visionary or reckless, depending on how the formulas turned out. With the Heartleaf 70% Daily Relief Lotion, the gamble mostly pays off.
The first thing you notice is what isn't here. No fragrance. No silicones. No drying alcohols. No essential oils added for aesthetic appeal. The ingredient list reads like a deliberate exercise in restraint, which is exactly what sensitized skin needs. Houttuynia cordata extract sits at the top at a claimed 70% concentration, making it the vehicle of the formula rather than a token botanical extract buried at the end of the INCI list. This matters because the anti-inflammatory flavonoids — quercetin, quercitrin, hyperoside — need meaningful concentration to do meaningful work.
The texture surprised me. It's thinner than what most Western consumers would expect from something called a lotion — more of a lightweight emulsion that pours almost like a slightly thickened water. It spreads across the face with zero resistance and absorbs in seconds. There's no film, no tackiness, no greasy sheen left behind. For oily and combination skin types, this is the kind of moisturizer that actually gets used twice a day because it never feels like it's sitting on your face competing for attention with the rest of your routine.
Beneath the heartleaf headline, the supporting cast is thoughtfully assembled. Three forms of hyaluronic acid — sodium hyaluronate for surface hydration, hydrolyzed HA for deeper penetration into the stratum corneum, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate for longer-lasting moisture retention — create a layered hydration approach that goes beyond surface-level dewiness. Ceramide NP and phytosqualane handle barrier repair duty, providing lipid support without the heaviness of traditional ceramide creams. Beta-glucan doubles as both a soothing agent and a humectant, quietly amplifying the calming work that the heartleaf is doing. The inclusion of fructooligosaccharides as a prebiotic is a smart modern touch, supporting the skin's microbiome without requiring a whole separate product in your lineup.
Performance-wise, the immediate soothing is genuinely noticeable. Redness-prone skin calms visibly within minutes of application, and that effect compounds over days and weeks of consistent use. The lotion particularly excels as a post-procedure recovery moisturizer or as a calming layer after actives like retinol or chemical exfoliants — the kind of product dermatologists would nod approvingly at even if the brand name doesn't come with decades of clinical heritage. It does exactly what Anua promises — daily relief — without any drama or overreach.
Honesty requires acknowledging the limitations, though. If you have genuinely dry skin, particularly in winter or arid climates, this lotion alone won't cut it as your sole moisturizer. It's a hydrator, not an occlusive, and the lightweight texture that makes it so pleasant for oily skin means there's not enough emollient heft to prevent transepidermal water loss in severely compromised barriers. You'd need to layer a heavier cream or sleeping mask on top at night. This isn't a flaw so much as a design choice — the product knows what it is and doesn't try to be everything to everyone.
The herbal scent deserves mention. There's a faint, grassy, slightly vegetal aroma from the heartleaf extract itself — the smell of the actual plant, not a fragrance house's interpretation of it. No fragrance is added, so what you smell is the raw botanical. It's mild and disappears within a minute, but if you're particularly sensitive to natural plant smells, it's there.
Anua is still a young brand — founded in 2019, with a limited independent clinical track record compared to heritage derm brands. The heartleaf extract itself has promising research behind it, with studies demonstrating anti-inflammatory activity through NF-kB pathway modulation and antioxidant properties from its polyphenolic content. But promising isn't the same as proven at the level of ingredients like ceramides or niacinamide, which have decades of clinical validation behind them. The formula works — you can feel it working — but some of the trust here is being extended on credit that Anua will need to keep earning.
The 200 mL size at $26 is genuinely good value for what you get. That's a lot of product for a K-beauty moisturizer, and the pump dispenser keeps it hygienic through months of daily use. For a product designed for twice-daily application, the sizing makes practical sense — you'll get three to four months out of a bottle without rationing or guilt about using enough.
This lotion has earned its following for straightforward reasons: it's gentle, it's effective at calming irritated skin, it's priced fairly, and it doesn't try to do too much. In a market saturated with moisturizers promising miracle transformations and multi-step benefits, there's something refreshing about a product that simply promises relief and delivers it with quiet competence.
The hero actives that drive this product's performance.
| Ingredient | Function | Evidence |
|---|---|---|
| Houttuynia Cordata (Heartleaf) Extract (70%) (70%) | The dominant base of this formula, providing quercetin-rich anti-inflammatory activity that calms redness and irritation while the polyphenolic flavonoids work synergistically with the ceramide and hyaluronic acid complex to reduce transepidermal water loss in sensitized skin. | Not yet assessed |
| Triple Hyaluronic Acid Complex | Three molecular weights — sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate — provide multi-depth hydration that the phytosqualane and shea butter then seal in, creating a layered moisture system rather than surface-only plumping. | Established mechanism for Dehydration · established mechanism |
| Ceramide NP | Reinforces the lipid barrier alongside the phytosqualane and hydrogenated lecithin in this formula, helping sensitized skin retain the hydration delivered by the triple hyaluronic acid system rather than losing it through a compromised barrier. | Established mechanism for Compromised Skin Barrier · established mechanism |
| Beta-Glucan | Complements the heartleaf extract's anti-inflammatory action with its own immunomodulatory soothing, while also functioning as a film-forming humectant that boosts the overall hydration capacity of this lightweight formula. | Not yet assessed |
| Phytosqualane | Plant-derived squalane alternative that provides lightweight emolliency without occlusiveness, helping this lotion maintain its thin, fast-absorbing texture while still locking in the moisture from the hyaluronic acid layers below. | Not yet assessed |
Ingredient standings describe the active at treatment-level doses and vehicles; this product's own condition grades weigh its actual formula.
Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phytosqualane, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Water, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Carbomer, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Arginine, Fructooligosaccharides, Beta-Glucan, Glucose, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Acetylated Sodium Hyaluronate, Ethylhexylglycerin
moisturizer
AM & PM
Apply after toner and serum. Lightweight enough to layer under sunscreen in the AM without pilling. In dry climates or winter, may need an occlusive on top at night.
Immediate soothing and hydration on first application. Redness reduction noticeable within 1-2 weeks of consistent use. Barrier strengthening and improved moisture retention develop over 4-6 weeks.
Houttuynia cordata, the star of this formula, has attracted increasing research attention for its dermatological applications. A 2022 comprehensive review published in the Journal of Ethnopharmacology catalogued the plant's pharmacological effects, identifying quercetin, quercitrin, hyperoside, and rutin as key active flavonoids responsible for anti-inflammatory activity. These compounds work primarily through inhibition of the NF-kB signaling pathway and suppression of COX-2 activity, reducing pro-inflammatory cytokine production in skin cells.
A 2022 study published in Molecules specifically examined hyperoside and quercitrin from Houttuynia cordata, demonstrating their ability to suppress inflammatory mediators in stimulated macrophages. More recently, a 2025 study in Scientific Reports evaluated Houttuynia cordata essential oil's bioactivities for cosmetic applications, confirming antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties with suppression of nitric oxide production in LPS-stimulated cells.
The triple hyaluronic acid approach in this formula leverages well-established hydration science. Sodium hyaluronate provides surface-level moisture binding, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid's smaller molecular weight allows deeper penetration into the stratum corneum, and acetylated sodium hyaluronate offers enhanced skin adhesion for prolonged hydration. Ceramide NP, one of the most abundant ceramides in healthy human stratum corneum, works alongside phytosqualane to restore the lipid matrix disrupted in sensitized or barrier-compromised skin. The prebiotic fructooligosaccharides represent a newer approach to skin health, supporting beneficial microbiome populations on the skin surface.
Dermatologists frequently recommend lightweight, fragrance-free moisturizers for patients with sensitive or reactive skin, and this formula checks those boxes cleanly. Practitioners typically point out that the combination of ceramides with humectants like hyaluronic acid supports barrier repair without the occlusive heaviness that can exacerbate acne in oily skin types. The absence of common sensitizers — fragrance, essential oils, drying alcohols — makes this a reasonable option for post-procedure care or as a gentle daily moisturizer alongside prescription actives like tretinoin. Dermatologists would note, however, that Houttuynia cordata is still an emerging ingredient in Western dermatological practice, with less clinical validation than established soothing agents like centella asiatica or colloidal oatmeal.
Dispense two to three pumps onto clean fingertips after cleansing, toning, and applying any treatment serums. Gently press and pat into the face and neck — no aggressive rubbing needed. In the morning, follow with sunscreen. At night, layer an occlusive or sleeping mask on top if you have dry skin. Can be applied to damp skin for enhanced hydration absorption. Use morning and evening for best results.
At $26 for 200 mL, this lotion offers strong value in the K-beauty moisturizer space. The cost per milliliter undercuts many comparable lightweight moisturizers, and the generous sizing means a single bottle lasts three to four months with regular use. A mini size is also available for those who want to trial before committing. For an emerging brand, the pricing feels appropriately modest — Anua isn't charging a premium that outpaces its ingredient list or track record, which builds trust rather than skepticism.
Anyone with oily, combination, or sensitive skin looking for a daily moisturizer that calms redness without adding weight or shine. Also excellent for those using active treatments like retinoids or chemical exfoliants who need a soothing, non-irritating buffer.
Those with very dry skin who need a rich, occlusive moisturizer as their sole hydration step. Also not ideal for anyone with confirmed fungal acne, as the formula contains caprylic/capric triglyceride.
Ready to try Anua Heartleaf 70% Daily Relief Lotion?
Buy at Amazon ♥Very thin, almost water-like lotion that spreads easily and absorbs within seconds. Has a slight milky translucency that disappears completely on the skin.
Faint herbal, slightly grassy scent from the heartleaf extract that dissipates quickly. No added fragrance.
Opaque white pump bottle with clean minimalist design. The 200 mL size with pump dispenser is hygienic and controls product dispensing well.
Immediately soothing on application with a cooling, lightweight sensation. No tingling or adjustment period. Redness-prone skin may notice visible calming within the first few uses. The thin texture may initially feel insufficient for dry skin types, but hydration builds with consistent use.
Roughly 3-4 months applied morning and evening to face and neck
All Year
Anua built its entire brand identity around Houttuynia cordata, a plant used in traditional Korean and Japanese herbal medicine for centuries. This lotion was designed as the daily moisturizer anchor for their heartleaf line, filling the gap between their toner and heavier cream for users who wanted soothing hydration without weight.
Anua was founded in 2019 by Korean brand incubator The Founders and has rapidly gained global traction through viral K-beauty channels. The brand's formulations center on Houttuynia cordata (heartleaf), a traditional East Asian botanical with emerging clinical evidence, though independent validation of Anua's specific products remains limited.
70% heartleaf extract means the lotion is basically just plant water with no real actives.
Houttuynia cordata extract contains quercetin, quercitrin, and other polyphenolic flavonoids with demonstrated anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity. The high concentration ensures meaningful delivery of these compounds, and the formula supplements them with ceramide NP, triple HA, and beta-glucan.
Lightweight lotions can't provide enough moisture for barrier repair.
This formula includes ceramide NP and phytosqualane for lipid barrier support alongside its humectant system. For oily and combination skin, a lighter vehicle can actually improve compliance and barrier recovery compared to heavy creams that trigger excess sebum production.
Yes — this lotion's fragrance-free, silicone-free, oil-free formula with anti-inflammatory heartleaf extract makes it well-suited for acne-prone skin. The lightweight texture won't clog pores, and the ceramide NP helps repair the compromised barrier that often accompanies acne treatments.
Absolutely. The ceramide NP, triple hyaluronic acid, and soothing heartleaf extract in this formula help buffer irritation from retinol. Apply the lotion after your retinol has absorbed to lock in moisture and reduce the dryness and flaking that retinoids commonly cause.
On its own, this lotion may feel too lightweight for very dry skin, especially in winter. However, layering it over a hydrating toner and under a heavier occlusive or sleeping mask at night can make it work well as part of a dry-skin routine.
Heartleaf extract contains polyphenolic flavonoids like quercetin and quercitrin that have demonstrated anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties in research studies. In this formula at 70% concentration, it provides meaningful soothing benefits for redness-prone and sensitized skin.
The 70% Daily Relief Lotion is significantly lighter in texture and better suited for oily or combination skin, while the 80% Soothing Cream offers a richer, more occlusive finish for dry skin types. Both center on heartleaf extract but at different concentrations and in different vehicle types.
While this lotion is free of many common fungal acne triggers, it contains caprylic/capric triglyceride and cetearyl alcohol, which some fungal acne-prone individuals may react to. If you have active Malassezia folliculitis, patch test first or consult a dermatologist.
Recurring themes our editors read across retailer reviews of this product — summaries in our words, not quotations, and not a substitute for your own patch test.
Extremely lightweight and non-greasy
Soothes redness and irritation quickly
Large 200 mL size offers great value
Absorbs fast with no sticky residue
Pump packaging is hygienic and convenient
May not be moisturizing enough for very dry skin in winter
Heartleaf scent is herbal and unfamiliar to some users
Can feel too thin for those expecting a traditional lotion texture
Verified answers from our questions library — the nuance a product page cannot carry.
