Most clay masks are purely subtractive — they pull oil and call it a day. This formula combines dual clays with heartleaf and centella soothing, ceramide NP for barrier protection, a peptide for collagen stimulation, and protease enzyme for gentle keratin softening. It's trying to refine pores while actually caring for the skin underneath.
An impressively formulated clay mask that balances pore-clearing power with barrier-protective ingredients you rarely see in the category. The fragrance inclusion is a disappointing misstep for a brand built on sensitive-skin trust, but the formula beneath it is genuinely thoughtful.
Note: This clay mask has been available since approximately 2023 with moderate review volume. Our scoring reflects ingredient analysis and growing real-world feedback. As more real-world feedback arrives, this rating could move either way.
Listed for Large Pores, Excess Oiliness, Blackheads, Acne and Rough Texture — the actives here (Kaolin Clay, Houttuynia Cordata (Heartleaf) are in our research queue for those concerns; there is no verdict until their evidence rows are written. That is a gap in our table, not a mark against the product.
As a maskNot judged: what a mask is for — works within its wear time, benefit outlasts the mask, comes off cleanly — cannot yet be measured from the ingredient list (only intensity without injury can).
A verdict is DermApproved’s assessment of how well a product’s ingredients fit a concern — never a claim about what the product treats. Evidence dots and collected reviews sit beside it and are never blended in. Rules 0.5.1 · evidence table ev-2026.09-r228 · how we decide
There's a fundamental tension in clay masks that most brands ignore: the people who need pore-clearing the most — those with oily, acne-prone, congested skin — often have the most reactive, easily irritated skin underneath all that sebum. Traditional clay masks address the oil and leave the irritation as someone else's problem. Anua's Heartleaf Pore Clay Pack attempts to solve both sides simultaneously, and it mostly succeeds, with one conspicuous exception that we need to address up front.
This mask contains added fragrance. For a brand that has built its entire identity on fragrance-free, sensitive-skin-friendly formulations, this is a puzzling choice that undermines the trust Anua has carefully cultivated across the heartleaf line. The eucalyptus-adjacent scent is pleasant enough in isolation — it gives the mask a mild spa-like quality — but fragrance is a documented skin sensitizer, and its inclusion in a product specifically designed for congested, potentially reactive skin is hard to justify on scientific grounds. If you have fragrance sensitivities, this mask isn't for you, full stop. With that stated clearly, let's talk about everything else.
The dual-clay system is the foundation, and it's intelligently constructed. Kaolin at 20% and bentonite at 3.5% create a graduated absorption approach that avoids the all-or-nothing aggression of single-clay masks. Kaolin is the gentler partner — it absorbs oil steadily without aggressive stripping, providing a sustained matte effect that doesn't come with that papery, over-dried sensation. Bentonite is the deeper worker, with a layered crystal structure that swells and traps lipids and impurities from further within the pores. Together, they provide thorough pore clearing without the dry, tight, cracking sensation that bentonite-dominant masks inflict on skin that didn't ask for punishment.
Where this mask genuinely distinguishes itself is in what surrounds the clays. Houttuynia cordata extract at 10.1% delivers anti-inflammatory soothing during the masking process itself — not after, not as a suggested follow-up product, but embedded into the clay formula so that your skin is being calmed while it's being deep-cleaned. Centella asiatica extract adds its own well-documented calming pathway, creating a dual-botanical soothing system that works concurrently with the clay absorption. This is a fundamentally different experience from the typical clay-mask-then-scramble-for-moisturizer routine that most oily skin types know all too well.
The formula goes further still. Ceramide NP is an unusual and genuinely thoughtful inclusion in a clay mask — it helps replenish the lipids that the clays are actively pulling from the skin surface, providing real-time barrier protection during a process that traditionally compromises the barrier. It's like a contractor who demolishes and rebuilds simultaneously rather than leaving you without walls for a week. Panthenol adds wound-healing support and humectant hydration that prevents the dehydration rebound that follows most clay treatments. Sodium hyaluronate and hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid provide moisture from two molecular weights, ensuring the skin retains adequate hydration even as the clays do their absorbing work.
Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, a signal peptide that stimulates collagen production, adds an anti-aging dimension that elevates this beyond a simple pore-clearing product. It's not the star ingredient here — the concentration is modest — but it signals that Anua was thinking about skin quality holistically rather than just sebum removal. The protease enzyme adds enzymatic keratolysis, gently breaking down the keratin proteins that, along with sebum, form the plugs that enlarge and darken pores. It's a mild exfoliation that works selectively on dead protein, tackling a different aspect of pore congestion than the clays' physical oil absorption.
In use, the mask applies as a thick, smooth cream — markedly easier to spread evenly than traditional powdery clay masks that fight you the whole way across your cheeks. It sets to a semi-firm texture within a few minutes, enough to signal it's working but without the concrete-like rigidity that makes rinsing a test of patience. Five to ten minutes is the ideal window — long enough for the clays and enzyme to complete their work, short enough to avoid excessive dehydration that defeats the purpose of the barrier-protective additions.
After rinsing, skin feels immediately smoother. There's a satisfying matte finish without the papery tightness that signals over-stripping. Pores look visibly less congested, and the surface texture has a refined, almost polished quality that lasts a day or two before sebum production naturally resumes its baseline. With weekly use over a month, the cumulative effect is genuine — pores maintain a cleaner, more refined appearance, and the skin develops a smoother texture that becomes its new normal rather than a one-night improvement.
The limitations are straightforward. This mask is designed for oily and combination skin — dry skin types will find it too stripping even with the barrier-protective additions. Sensitive skin that reacts to fragrance should avoid it entirely, which is an unfortunate exclusion for a brand whose core audience includes fragrance-sensitive consumers. And the 100 mL tube, while lasting three to four months at weekly use, feels modest compared to the generous sizing of Anua's toners and lotions.
The fragrance issue genuinely matters because it's so out of character. Every other Anua heartleaf product reviewed here is fragrance-free. Consumers who've built trust in the brand's clean-ingredient philosophy will feel justified in being confused by this addition. The formula beneath the fragrance is excellent — genuinely one of the more thoughtful clay masks on the market. If Anua drops the fragrance in a future reformulation, this becomes an easy recommendation. Until then, it's a very good clay mask with one unnecessary compromise.
The hero actives that drive this product's performance.
| Ingredient | Function | Evidence |
|---|---|---|
| Kaolin (20%) (20%) | The primary clay in this mask at 20%, kaolin absorbs excess sebum and draws impurities from pores without the aggressive stripping that bentonite alone can cause. In this formula, kaolin and bentonite work as a graduated absorption system — kaolin provides gentle, sustained oil control while bentonite handles deeper sebum extraction. | Not yet assessed |
| Houttuynia Cordata Extract (10.1%) (10.1%) | At 10.1%, the heartleaf extract serves as the anti-inflammatory counterbalance to the clay's drying action, delivering quercetin-based soothing that prevents the redness and irritation that typically follows clay mask use on sensitive skin. | Not yet assessed |
| Centella Asiatica Extract | Provides a second line of botanical soothing alongside the heartleaf, ensuring that the clay's pore-clearing action happens in a calming environment. The dual-botanical approach reduces the inflammatory response that makes many clay masks unsuitable for sensitive skin. | Not yet assessed |
| Ceramide NP | An unusual but smart inclusion in a clay mask — the ceramide helps prevent the barrier disruption that aggressive oil removal can cause, replenishing lipids that the kaolin and bentonite strip during the masking process. | Not yet assessed |
| Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 | A collagen-stimulating signal peptide that adds an anti-aging dimension to what would otherwise be purely a pore-clearing mask. Works alongside the soluble collagen to support skin firmness and elasticity alongside the primary sebum-control function. | Not yet assessed |
Ingredient standings describe the active at treatment-level doses and vehicles; this product's own condition grades weigh its actual formula.
Water, Kaolin, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Glycerin, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Bentonite, Hexylene Glycol, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Glucoside, Betaine, Decyl Glucoside, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica (Fig) Fruit Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Soluble Collagen, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Calamine, Houttuynia Cordata Powder, Xanthan Gum, Dipropylene Glycol, Chlorella Vulgaris Powder, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Allantoin, Sorbitan Oleate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Fructooligosaccharides, Protease, Beta-Glucan, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Quercetin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Fragrance, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Iron Oxide Yellow
treatment
PM
Use 1-2 times per week after cleansing. Apply a thin, even layer over the face, avoiding the eye and lip areas. Leave on for 5-10 minutes (less for sensitive areas). Rinse with lukewarm water and follow immediately with a hydrating toner and moisturizer.
Immediately smoother, matte skin after a single use. Pores appear visibly refined after 2-3 weeks of weekly use. Best results with consistent 1-2x weekly application over 4-6 weeks.
Kaolin and bentonite clays work through different mechanisms of oil absorption. Kaolin is a phyllosilicate mineral with moderate absorption capacity — research shows it adsorbs sebum through surface interaction without penetrating deep into the stratum corneum. Bentonite is a smectite clay with higher absorption capacity due to its layered crystal structure, which can swell and trap lipids and impurities between its layers. The combination provides both surface-level and deeper sebum removal.
The inclusion of protease enzyme adds a third cleansing mechanism — enzymatic keratolysis. Proteases break down the keratin proteins that, along with sebum, form the plugs that enlarge pores. This approach has been studied for its gentleness compared to chemical exfoliants, as it works selectively on dead protein rather than indiscriminately dissolving intercellular bonds.
Houttuynia cordata's anti-inflammatory activity through NF-kB pathway inhibition, documented in the 2022 PMC comprehensive review, provides meaningful soothing during the masking process. Ceramide NP's inclusion represents evidence-based barrier support — research confirms that topical ceramides help restore the lipid matrix that clay absorption can temporarily disrupt.
Dermatologists frequently recommend clay masks for oily and acne-prone skin, noting that kaolin-based formulations are generally better tolerated than pure bentonite masks. Working dermatologists appreciate the inclusion of ceramides and humectants in this formula, as these help prevent the barrier disruption that makes post-mask skin vulnerable to irritation. However, dermatologists would note the fragrance inclusion as a concern for patients with contact sensitivities — an ingredient that can trigger allergic contact dermatitis has limited justification in a therapeutic skincare product. For fragrance-sensitive patients, dermatologists would recommend alternative clay masks without added scent.
After cleansing, apply a thin, even layer over the face, avoiding the eye and lip areas. Focus on the T-zone and areas with visible pores. Leave on for 5-10 minutes — do not wait until fully dry. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water, massaging gently in circular motions. Follow immediately with a hydrating toner and moisturizer. Use 1-2 times per week. Do not use on the same day as chemical exfoliants or retinoids.
At approximately $22 for 100 mL, this clay mask sits in the mid-range of K-beauty mask pricing. With weekly use, the tube lasts three to four months, making the per-use cost around $1.50 — reasonable for a well-formulated clay mask with ceramides, peptides, and dual-botanical soothing. The ingredient list justifies the price more than most competitors at similar price points, but the fragrance inclusion dims the value proposition for consumers who specifically sought Anua for its clean-ingredient reputation.
Anyone with oily or combination skin dealing with enlarged pores, blackheads, or excess sebum who wants a clay mask that doesn't leave skin feeling stripped. Best for those who appreciate a fragrance in their masking experience and prioritize pore-clearing results.
Fragrance-sensitive individuals, those with dry or eczema-prone skin, and anyone who chose Anua specifically for its fragrance-free philosophy. If fragrance is a dealbreaker, look elsewhere in the clay mask category.
Thick, smooth, creamy clay paste with a pale green-yellow color. Easier to spread than traditional dry clay masks. Sets to a semi-firm finish but doesn't crack or harden completely.
Noticeable eucalyptus-like herbal fragrance. This is added fragrance — a departure from the fragrance-free standard of Anua's other heartleaf products.
Tube format with flip cap. Hygienic dispensing that prevents contamination. 100 mL tube is easy to control for consistent application thickness.
The creamy texture spreads easily without pulling at the skin. A slight cooling sensation as it sets, likely from the eucalyptus fragrance component. After 5-10 minutes, the mask firms without fully hardening. Rinsing reveals noticeably smoother, slightly matte skin with visibly refined pores. Some temporary tightness is normal but should resolve within minutes of applying moisturizer.
3-4 months with 1-2 weekly uses
spring summer
Anua developed this clay mask to address a common complaint in the K-beauty community: clay masks that work for pores but wreck sensitive skin. By combining their signature heartleaf extract with dual clays and barrier-supportive ingredients, they attempted to make deep cleansing accessible to the skin types that typically can't tolerate it. The fragrance addition, however, is a puzzling departure from the brand's otherwise clean-ingredient philosophy.
Anua was founded in 2019 by Korean brand incubator The Founders and has rapidly gained global traction through viral K-beauty channels. The brand's formulations center on Houttuynia cordata (heartleaf), a traditional East Asian botanical with emerging clinical evidence, though independent validation of Anua's specific products remains limited.
Clay masks permanently shrink pores.
Pore size is largely determined by genetics and sebum production. Clay masks temporarily reduce the appearance of pores by removing the sebum and debris that stretch them. With consistent weekly use, pores maintain a more refined appearance, but the effect requires ongoing maintenance.
You should leave clay masks on until they're completely dry and cracking.
Over-drying a clay mask pulls too much moisture from the skin, causing irritation and barrier damage. This mask should be removed after 5-10 minutes while still slightly damp for optimal sebum absorption without excessive dehydration.
Yes — unlike most other Anua heartleaf products, this clay mask contains added fragrance with a eucalyptus-like scent. If you have fragrance sensitivities or specifically chose Anua for fragrance-free formulations, this product may not be suitable for you.
Use 1-2 times per week. More frequent use can over-strip the skin, even with the barrier-protective ceramides and panthenol in the formula. Start with once a week and increase to twice if your skin tolerates it well.
Not on the same day. Clay masks and retinol both stress the skin barrier, and combining them increases the risk of irritation and dehydration. Use the clay mask and retinol on alternating days to let the skin recover between treatments.
5-10 minutes is the sweet spot. Remove the mask while it's still slightly damp — do not wait until it's fully dry and cracking. Over-drying pulls too much moisture from the skin and causes unnecessary irritation.
Yes — the dual kaolin-bentonite clay system absorbs sebum from pores while the protease enzyme breaks down the keratin plugs that contribute to blackhead formation. Weekly use helps maintain cleaner pores and reduces the appearance of blackheads over time.
Recurring themes our editors read across retailer reviews of this product — summaries in our words, not quotations, and not a substitute for your own patch test.
Skin feels incredibly smooth and soft after use
Visibly reduces the appearance of pores
Creamy texture is easier to apply than traditional clay masks
Eucalyptus scent feels spa-like and refreshing
Doesn't dry out excessively compared to other clay masks
Contains fragrance, inconsistent with the rest of the heartleaf line
Can be too drying for sensitive skin if left on too long
Eucalyptus scent is polarizing — some love it, others find it irritating
Price is moderate for a 100 mL clay mask
Verified answers from our questions library — the nuance a product page cannot carry.
