This is the highest-concentration HPR product in The Ordinary's lineup at 0.5% — more than double the 2% Emulsion's 0.2% HPR. The anhydrous squalane base eliminates the need for water-phase stabilizers and preservatives, resulting in a remarkably clean 10-ingredient formula that delivers a potent retinoid in a skin-identical lipid vehicle. For dry and mature skin types, the squalane base simultaneously treats and moisturizes.
The stronger, more nourishing sibling of The Ordinary's popular retinoid duo — 0.5% HPR in a skin-identical squalane base that treats and moisturizes simultaneously. Ideal for dry and mature skin types who want meaningful retinoid activity without the peeling, flaking, and general misery that traditional retinol inflicts.
Note: While this product has been available since 2016, it has a smaller review base (~700 reviews) than the more popular 2% Emulsion version. Our scoring combines ingredient analysis, HPR research, and available user feedback. The score may be refined as more comparative data between the two Granactive Retinoid formulations becomes available.
The case for it
Same rule for everyone. “Good choice” is the verdict on 9,564 of 45,024 concern verdicts across the catalog; rule R5 decided 9,072 of them. Unchanged since September 5, 2026, engine 5.1.1.
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The studies behind the evidence row
Also listed for Aging, Dullness, Rough Texture, Sun Damage and Dark Spots — the actives here (Squalane, Bisabolol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) are in our research queue for those concerns; there is no verdict until their evidence rows are written. That is a gap in our table, not a mark against the product.
A verdict is DermApproved’s assessment of how well a product’s ingredients fit a concern — never a claim about what the product treats. Evidence dots and collected reviews sit beside it and are never blended in. Rules 0.5.1 · evidence table ev-2026.09-r228 · how we decide
Most retinoid products treat dry skin like an afterthought. They deliver the active, generate some peeling, and leave you to sort out the moisture situation with whatever cream you can layer on top. The Ordinary's Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane takes a different approach entirely: it builds the retinoid into a vehicle that is itself a treatment for dryness.
Squalane — the hydrogenated, shelf-stable form of squalene — is a lipid your skin already produces. It is one of the major components of human sebum, and applying it topically is less like adding a foreign product and more like topping off a reservoir that starts depleting in your twenties. As a carrier for Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, squalane does double duty: it provides occlusive moisture that counteracts the drying tendency of retinoids, and its structural similarity to the skin's own lipids facilitates penetration of the HPR through the stratum corneum. The active rides in on a familiar vehicle.
The formula is strikingly minimal. Ten ingredients. No water, no emulsifiers, no preservatives needed for an aqueous phase. Squalane leads, followed by C12-15 alkyl benzoate (an emollient ester), bisabolol for anti-inflammatory support, dimethyl isosorbide as a penetration enhancer, caprylic/capric triglyceride and jojoba seed oil for additional lipid support, HPR, and three botanical antioxidants — tomato fruit extract, rosemary leaf extract, and hydroxymethoxyphenyl decanone. That is the entire product. There is nowhere for ineffective filler ingredients to hide.
At 0.5% HPR — derived from the 5% Granactive Retinoid complex designation — this is the strongest HPR product in The Ordinary's range, containing 2.5 times the active retinoid concentration of the 2% Emulsion. The distinction matters, but not in the way the numbers might suggest. The 2% Emulsion compensates for its lower HPR with the addition of encapsulated retinol, giving it a dual-retinoid approach. The 5% Squalane bets entirely on HPR, at a higher dose, in a richer vehicle. Neither is objectively better — they are designed for different skin types and different priorities.
On the skin, this product feels exactly like what it is: a lightweight facial oil. The dropper delivers a thin, slightly golden liquid that spreads easily but does take two to three minutes to absorb fully. On dry and normal skin, it settles into a comfortable dewy finish that works well as a final PM step or under a heavier night cream. On oily skin, it is likely to feel like too much — the squalane layer sits on the surface longer than a water-based emulsion would, and the all-over dewiness that dry skin craves can read as shine on oilier complexions.
The adjustment period is gentler than most retinoid products, but it exists. Some users report mild dryness around the eyes and lips during the first two weeks — areas where the skin is thinner and more sensitive to retinoid activity. Starting with every-other-night application and building to nightly use over two to three weeks is the standard dermatological advice, and it holds here. The bisabolol, positioned high in the formula, provides meaningful anti-inflammatory support that helps smooth the transition.
Results develop on a retinoid's timeline, not a moisturizer's. By week four to six, skin texture starts to feel genuinely smoother — not just from the squalane's emollient effect, but from the HPR-driven increase in cellular turnover. By month two to three, fine lines begin to soften and overall skin tone looks more even and luminous. Deep wrinkles and significant photodamage will see improvement but not transformation — for those concerns, prescription tretinoin remains the gold standard, and this product would serve better as a gentler maintenance step or as a bridge for retinoid-intolerant patients.
The twelve-month PAO is worth noting as a practical advantage over the 2% Emulsion's three-month window. Anhydrous formulas are inherently more stable than water-based ones — there is no aqueous phase to support microbial growth, and the squalane vehicle protects the HPR from oxidative degradation more effectively than an emulsion base. If you use retinoids intermittently rather than nightly, this longer stability window means less product waste.
At 6.70, the value calculation is compelling. You are getting 0.5% HPR — a retinoic acid ester that binds directly to retinoid receptors — in a premium squalane base with botanical antioxidant support, for less than the cost of a mediocre lunch. Comparable HPR concentrations in luxury brands run 0-120. The Ordinary's pricing makes the decision to try HPR essentially risk-free.
This is not the retinoid for everyone. Oily skin types should reach for the lighter 2% Emulsion. People who want aggressive, visible-within-weeks anti-aging should consider prescription tretinoin. But for dry and mature skin types who want their retinoid to feel like a treat rather than a treatment — who want to turn off the light at night knowing their skin is getting both retinoid signaling and lipid nourishment from a single product — this ten-ingredient oil delivers exactly that.
The hero actives that drive this product's performance.
| Ingredient | Function | Evidence |
|---|---|---|
| Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (Granactive Retinoid) (0.5% (within 5% Granactive Retinoid complex)) | At 2.5 times the concentration of the 2% Emulsion version, HPR delivers more aggressive retinoid receptor activation while still bypassing the enzymatic conversion that makes traditional retinol irritating. In this oil-based formula, HPR is dissolved directly in squalane and dimethyl isosorbide — a penetration enhancer — providing sustained delivery through the lipid-rich vehicle without the need for emulsifiers or water-phase stabilizers. | Not yet assessed |
| Squalane | The primary carrier and the product's defining feature. Squalane is a hydrogenated form of squalene, a lipid naturally produced by human sebocytes. As the base of this formula, it provides occlusive moisture that counteracts the drying tendency of retinoids while enhancing HPR's penetration through the lipid-rich stratum corneum — essentially using the skin's own lipid architecture to deliver the active. | Established mechanism for Dryness · established mechanism |
| Bisabolol | A chamomile-derived anti-inflammatory positioned third in the ingredient list — significantly higher than in the 2% Emulsion — to actively buffer the increased retinoid activity of the 0.5% HPR concentration. Provides soothing support that helps prevent the redness and irritation that higher-strength retinoids can trigger. | Not yet assessed |
| Jojoba Seed Oil | A wax ester that closely mimics human sebum composition, providing emollient support that reinforces the squalane base. In this retinoid formula, jojoba oil helps maintain barrier integrity during the cellular turnover that HPR promotes, reducing the flaking and tightness associated with retinoid adjustment. | Established mechanism for Dryness · established mechanism |
Ingredient standings describe the active at treatment-level doses and vehicles; this product's own condition grades weigh its actual formula.
Squalane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Bisabolol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Fruit Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
treatment
PM
Apply a few drops to clean, dry skin in the evening after water-based serums. The oil base means this should be one of the last steps before a heavier moisturizer or occlusive, or used as a standalone treatment for those with dry skin. Do not combine with other retinoids, direct acids, or L-ascorbic acid.
Weeks 1-2: skin may feel slightly drier around eyes and lips as it adjusts. Weeks 4-8: texture smoothing and improved radiance become noticeable. Weeks 8-16: fine lines soften, tone evens out, and overall skin quality improves. Full benefits develop over 3-6 months of consistent nightly use.
The pharmacological rationale for HPR in a squalane vehicle draws on two complementary principles. First, HPR's mechanism of action: as a retinoic acid ester, it binds directly to retinoid acid receptors (RAR) and retinoid X receptors (RXR) without requiring the enzymatic conversion steps that retinol depends on. This direct binding is what allows HPR to deliver retinoid signaling with significantly less irritation — the irritating intermediates generated during retinol's two-step oxidation to retinoic acid are simply not produced.
Second, the squalane delivery system: the stratum corneum is a lipid-rich barrier, and oil-soluble actives dissolved in skin-compatible lipids penetrate more efficiently than those in aqueous vehicles. Squalane's structural similarity to human squalene — a major component of the skin's own lipid matrix — means the vehicle integrates with the existing lipid architecture rather than sitting on top of it. Dimethyl isosorbide, the penetration enhancer that constitutes 90% of the Granactive Retinoid raw material, further facilitates HPR's transit through the stratum corneum.
The evidence base for HPR supports its efficacy at concentrations relevant to this product. Wang et al. (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2023) demonstrated that HPR-containing formulations improved wrinkle depth, smoothness, and elasticity after eight weeks with fewer adverse effects than retinol at comparable concentrations. Research presented in JAAD (2018) showed HPR increased procollagen production in skin models, with the highest dose outperforming tretinoin in qualitative assessment. The anhydrous formulation also offers stability advantages — HPR is more prone to degradation in aqueous systems where hydrolysis can occur, which partly explains this product's longer PAO compared to the water-based Emulsion version.
Dermatologists recognize the squalane-based HPR format as a useful option for patients with dry or mature skin who need retinoid therapy but struggle with the barrier disruption that water-based retinoid formulations can cause. Working dermatologists frequently stress that the lipid-rich vehicle provides inherent barrier support during the retinoid adjustment period, reducing the need for complex "retinoid sandwich" buffering strategies. For patients with a history of retinol intolerance, dermatologists often suggest this product as an alternative that delivers retinoid receptor activation through a gentler mechanism. However, dermatologists are careful to note that HPR, while promising, does not yet have the depth of independent clinical evidence that supports retinol or prescription tretinoin, and patients with significant photodamage or deep wrinkles may need to escalate to prescription-strength retinoids for optimal results.
Apply 4-5 drops to clean, dry skin in the evening, after any water-based serums. The oil texture means this should be applied after lighter products and before heavier creams, or used as a standalone final step for those with dry skin. Beginners should start with every other night and build to nightly use over 2-3 weeks. Avoid the immediate eye area initially. Sunscreen (SPF 30+) is mandatory every morning when using any retinoid. Store in a cool, dark place; refrigeration is recommended but less critical than for the water-based Emulsion version.
At $16.70 for 30 mL, this product delivers 0.5% HPR in a premium squalane base for a fraction of what comparable formulations cost from other brands. The twelve-month shelf life means less waste than the 2% Emulsion, and the dual benefit of retinoid activity plus lipid-rich moisturization eliminates the need for a separate facial oil in many routines. For dry and mature skin types, the effective cost per use is among the lowest in the retinoid category. The only size available is 30 mL — there is no trial size to test before committing.
Dry and mature skin types who want retinoid benefits delivered in a nourishing, moisturizing oil base. Also ideal for anyone who has tried retinol and experienced excessive dryness or peeling, and for retinoid users who want to step up from the 2% Emulsion without jumping to prescription tretinoin.
If you have oily skin, this oil base will feel heavy and may contribute to shine — the lighter 2% Emulsion is a better match. Also not the right choice if you need aggressive, rapid anti-aging results or if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.
Ready to try The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 5% in Squalane?
Buy at Amazon ♥A thin, lightweight oil with a slightly golden tint. Applies with a silky slip typical of squalane-based products. Takes 2-3 minutes to absorb fully, leaving a dewy but not overly greasy finish on dry to normal skin types.
Virtually unscented with a very faint botanical note from the rosemary and tomato extracts
Amber glass dropper bottle with The Ordinary's standard minimalist white label and black text. The dark glass protects the light-sensitive HPR from degradation.
On first use, the oil applies smoothly and feels nourishing rather than medicinal. Most users experience no immediate irritation. During the first 1-2 weeks, some dryness around the eyes and lips may occur as skin adjusts to the higher HPR concentration. Start with every other night and build to nightly use over 2-3 weeks.
2-3 months with nightly use of 4-5 drops
fall winter
This product represents the stronger sibling in The Ordinary's Granactive Retinoid duo. While the 2% Emulsion became the brand's bestselling retinoid thanks to its universal texture, the 5% in Squalane was designed for users who wanted more HPR without switching to traditional retinol. The squalane vehicle was chosen both for its stability benefits — HPR is more stable in anhydrous systems — and for its skin-compatibility with dry and mature skin types that struggle with water-based retinoid formulations.
The Ordinary launched under DECIEM in 2016 and rapidly became the most disruptive force in skincare by offering clinical-grade actives at unprecedented price points. Now owned by Estée Lauder Companies, the brand has built nearly a decade of consumer trust through ingredient transparency and accessible pricing.
5% is five times stronger than 1% retinol
The "5%" refers to the Granactive Retinoid complex (10% HPR in 90% dimethyl isosorbide solvent), so the actual HPR concentration is 0.5%. HPR and retinol work through different mechanisms and cannot be compared on a percentage-to-percentage basis. HPR binds directly to retinoid receptors while retinol requires two conversion steps, making direct potency comparisons misleading.
Oil-based retinoids do not penetrate as well as water-based ones
The stratum corneum is a lipid-rich barrier, and oil-soluble actives can actually penetrate more efficiently through it than water-soluble ones. Squalane closely mimics human sebum, creating a delivery vehicle that the skin recognizes and absorbs readily. The dimethyl isosorbide in the Granactive Retinoid complex further enhances penetration.
The 5% refers to the total Granactive Retinoid complex, which contains 10% HPR (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate) and 90% dimethyl isosorbide (a penetration enhancer). So 5% of the complex translates to 0.5% HPR — the active retinoid that binds to skin receptors. This is 2.5 times the HPR concentration in the 2% Emulsion version.
Choose the 5% in Squalane if you have dry or mature skin and want a higher HPR concentration in a moisturizing oil base. Choose the 2% Emulsion if you have oily, combination, or normal skin and prefer a lighter texture. The 2% Emulsion also contains retinol as a secondary active, while the 5% Squalane relies solely on HPR for its retinoid activity.
Yes, once your skin adjusts. Start with every other night for the first 2-3 weeks, then increase to nightly use. Despite the higher HPR concentration, this product is gentler than most traditional retinol serums. If you experience persistent dryness or irritation, reduce to 3-4 nights per week.
Yes. The formula contains squalane (which does not feed Malassezia yeast), jojoba oil (a wax ester, not a true oil), and caprylic/capric triglyceride. None of the 10 ingredients are known fungal acne triggers, making this a safe retinoid option for fungal acne-prone skin.
The Ordinary recommends refrigerating retinoid products after opening to maintain stability. However, this anhydrous squalane formula is more inherently stable than water-based retinoid products. The 12-month PAO is more generous than the 2% Emulsion's 3-month window, reflecting the greater stability of the oil base.
Recurring themes our editors read across retailer reviews of this product — summaries in our words, not quotations, and not a substitute for your own patch test.
Effectively reduces fine lines and improves skin texture with minimal irritation
Squalane base provides excellent hydration for dry and mature skin
Gentle enough for retinoid-sensitive users who want a stronger concentration
Clean, minimal 10-ingredient formula with no fragrance or irritants
Good value at $16.70 for a higher-strength HPR treatment
Oily texture takes time to absorb and can feel greasy on the skin
Too heavy for oily skin — the 2% Emulsion is a better option
Some users report limited visible results even after months of use
Thin oil consistency drips from the dropper and can be messy to apply
Initial dryness around eyes and lips during the adjustment period
Verified answers from our questions library — the nuance a product page cannot carry.
