It lists a 10 percent gluconolactone concentration and a pH of 4.0 on the label, uses 74 percent birch sap instead of water and contains no fragrance, making it a clearly documented gentle daily exfoliant.
A refreshingly transparent, fragrance-free PHA treatment that declares 10 percent gluconolactone and a pH of 4.0 on the label, delivering gentle daily exfoliation and hydration for sensitive, dry and redness-prone skin. It is milder than AHA or BHA toners for heavy congestion, and the finish is slightly tacky, but it is excellent value.
Few English-language reviews exist for this treatment, so the assessment relies mainly on its fully declared ingredient list, the pH printed on the label and published evidence for gluconolactone. How it performs across different skin types over months is not independently documented.
Listed for Rough Texture, Dullness and Dehydration — the actives here (Birch Sap, Gluconolactone, Apple) are in our research queue for those concerns; there is no verdict until their evidence rows are written. That is a gap in our table, not a mark against the product.
A verdict is DermApproved’s assessment of how well a product’s ingredients fit a concern — never a claim about what the product treats. Evidence dots and collected reviews sit beside it and are never blended in. Rules 0.5.1 · evidence table ev-2026.09-r228 · how we decide
Printed on the side of this pale blue bottle, in the same lab-report style Derma Factory uses across its range, is a small detail most brands leave out: "pH 4.0, scent None." For an exfoliant, those two numbers matter more than any claim on the front. The pH tells you how much of the acid is available to work, and the absence of fragrance tells you the formula has not been dressed up to hide anything. Together with a fourteen-ingredient list that declares its main components by percentage, they make the Gluconolactone (PHA) 10% Treatment one of the more transparent exfoliating toners you can buy, and one of the gentlest.
Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid, often shortened to PHA. Chemically it is a cousin of the alpha hydroxy acids such as glycolic and lactic acid, but with a larger, sugar-like molecule carrying several hydroxyl groups. That size slows its penetration into the skin, which is why PHAs exfoliate more gradually and with far less sting than glycolic acid. The extra hydroxyl groups also make gluconolactone a humectant, so it draws in water while it loosens dead cells. At ten percent and pH 4.0, this formula sits in the effective range for a daily-use PHA: acidic enough for gluconolactone to work, but not so low that sensitive skin will protest.
Instead of water, the base is birch sap, declared at seventy-four percent and sourced, according to the brand, from Yeongcheon in Korea. Birch sap is mostly water with small amounts of sugars, amino acids and minerals, and it is a popular marketing base in Korean skincare. In practice it behaves much like water with a mild hydrating bonus, and there is no strong evidence that it outperforms a plain aqueous base, but it does no harm. Apple fruit extract at two percent adds a small amount of natural fruit acids and antioxidants. Propanediol and butylene glycol are humectants, tromethamine buffers the pH, and a little xanthan gum and hydroxyethylcellulose give the liquid its slightly tacky, gel-like slip. There are no essential oils, no alcohol and no fragrance.
That slip is worth knowing about. Unlike a watery toner, this treatment has a light viscosity and leaves a faintly tacky film as it dries, which the brand describes as part of its hydrating effect. Some people like the cushioned feel; others find it lingers. It layers well under serums and moisturisers once it has settled for a minute. Applying it with the hands rather than a pad also helps the tackiness settle faster, because less liquid ends up sitting on the surface.
In use, the treatment is best applied with the hands or a soft cotton pad after cleansing. Most people feel little or nothing on application, and even reactive skin rarely stings. Over two to four weeks, rough patches soften, dullness lifts slightly, and small bumps from congestion may become less noticeable. The effect is gentler and slower than a glycolic or salicylic acid toner, which is exactly the point: PHAs are for people who cannot tolerate stronger acids or who want an exfoliant they can use daily without disrupting the barrier.
That positioning is supported by research. A 2004 review in Cutis by Grimes and colleagues summarised evidence that PHAs such as gluconolactone provide antiageing and smoothing benefits comparable to AHAs while causing less irritation, and that they are compatible with sensitive skin, including rosacea and atopic dermatitis. Much of that work was conducted by researchers connected to a company that developed PHA products, so it should be read with that in mind, but the lower irritation profile of gluconolactone is well accepted.
The limitations are straightforward. If you need strong exfoliation for thick, oily skin with persistent blackheads, a PHA at ten percent will feel mild, and a salicylic acid product will do more for clogged pores. Gluconolactone also has limited effect on established pigmentation compared with dedicated brightening ingredients. And although PHAs are gentle, any exfoliant increases the skin's sensitivity to UV, so daily sunscreen remains essential.
It also combines well with most routines. A niacinamide serum on top addresses redness and oiliness through a different pathway, and a ceramide moisturiser locks in the hydration that the PHA and birch sap provide. People already using a retinoid can often keep this treatment in the morning and the retinoid at night, since PHAs are unlikely to add much irritation. The one combination to avoid is stacking it with a strong glycolic or salicylic acid product on the same day, which removes the main advantage of choosing a gentle exfoliant in the first place.
Derma Factory is a Korean brand built on simple, ingredient-focused formulas with a clinical aesthetic, sold widely through Korean and international online retailers. This treatment has been on the market for a couple of years, but reviews in English are limited, so most of what can be said rests on the formula and on the established science of PHAs.
The price is a strong point. DodoSkin sells the 150 ml bottle for about eight dollars, though other US-facing retailers charge considerably more, so it is worth comparing. Even at the higher prices, the transparent formula and genuinely gentle performance make it good value.
For sensitive, dry or redness-prone skin that wants regular, low-drama exfoliation, this is an easy recommendation. It will not replace a strong acid for stubborn congestion, but it is one of the few exfoliants you can use every day without regret.
The hero actives that drive this product's performance.
| Ingredient | Function | Evidence |
|---|---|---|
| Gluconolactone (10%) | The polyhydroxy acid at a declared 10 percent and labelled pH 4.0, exfoliating gradually while also acting as a humectant, so the treatment smooths without the sting of glycolic acid. | Not yet assessed |
| Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice (74%) | Replaces water as the base at a declared 74 percent, adding a mild hydrating feel to the PHA solution rather than a distinct treatment effect. | Not yet assessed |
| Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract (2%) | Adds a small amount of natural fruit acids and antioxidants alongside the gluconolactone. | Not yet assessed |
Betula Platyphylla Japonica Juice (74%), Gluconolactone (10%), Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Tromethamine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract (2%), Water, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Acetate, Cellulose
treatment
AM & PM
Apply after cleansing with hands or a soft pad, let the slightly tacky layer settle for a minute, then follow with serum and moisturiser; use sunscreen in the morning.
Immediate: a hydrated, slightly tacky finish with little or no sting. Two to four weeks: rough patches soften and skin looks brighter. Over two to three months: smoother overall texture with continued daily use.
Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid whose multiple hydroxyl groups and larger molecular size set it apart from alpha hydroxy acids. It loosens the bonds between dead cells in the stratum corneum, but penetrates more slowly than glycolic acid, which reduces stinging and irritation. The hydroxyl groups also bind water, giving PHAs humectant properties and making them suitable for dry and sensitive skin.
In a 2004 review in Cutis, Grimes, Green, Wildnauer and Edison summarised clinical and laboratory data showing that PHAs such as gluconolactone and lactobionic acid produce smoothing and antiageing effects similar to AHAs, with fewer sensory irritation reactions, and that they are compatible with sensitive skin conditions, including rosacea and atopic dermatitis. Several of the authors were associated with a company that developed PHA-based products, which is worth noting when weighing the evidence, but the lower irritation potential of PHAs is widely accepted.
The effectiveness of any hydroxy acid depends on pH, because only the free-acid form exfoliates efficiently. Gluconolactone's pKa is around 3.8, so a formula at pH 4.0 keeps a meaningful proportion in its active form while remaining gentle. Birch sap and apple extract contribute minor humectant and antioxidant properties. As with all exfoliants, increased UV sensitivity is possible, so daily sunscreen is recommended.
Polyhydroxy acids are commonly suggested in clinical practice for patients who want the smoothing benefits of chemical exfoliation but cannot tolerate glycolic or salicylic acid, including those with sensitive skin, rosacea or mild atopic tendencies. Dermatologists generally recommend introducing any exfoliant gradually, avoiding combining multiple strong acids, and using daily broad-spectrum sunscreen. For comedonal acne with persistent blackheads, salicylic acid or retinoids are usually preferred, while PHAs are considered useful for texture, dullness and maintenance. Patients with a compromised barrier are often advised to pause exfoliants until the skin has recovered.
Once your face is cleansed, pour a small amount into your palms or onto a soft cotton pad and apply evenly over the face, avoiding the eye area. Allow a minute for the slightly tacky layer to settle, then continue with serums and moisturiser. Use once daily at first, then twice daily if well tolerated. Apply sunscreen every morning. On days when you use a stronger acid or retinoid, you may skip this step.
DodoSkin sells the 150 ml bottle for about eight dollars, which is exceptional value for a clearly labelled 10 percent PHA treatment; other US-facing K-beauty retailers charge up to around twenty-three dollars, so shopping around matters. A bottle lasts two to three months with twice-daily use. The formula is simple, fragrance-free and transparent about its concentration and pH, so even at higher prices it offers good value. Derma Factory's pricing reflects a no-frills, ingredient-led approach.
People with sensitive, dry, rosacea-prone or easily irritated skin who want gentle, daily exfoliation for rough texture and dullness, and anyone who has found AHA toners too harsh.
Those with oily, congested skin who need stronger exfoliation for blackheads, and anyone whose barrier is currently damaged or who dislikes a slightly tacky finish.
Ready to try Derma Factory Gluconolactone (PHA) 10% Treatment?
Buy at Amazon ♥A clear, lightly viscous liquid with a gel-like slip that dries to a faintly tacky, hydrated film.
Fragrance-free and essentially odourless, as the label states.
A 150 ml pale blue plastic bottle with a white screw cap and lab-report style label.
Most people feel little or no tingling, even on sensitive skin. The finish is slightly tacky until it settles. Smoother texture usually becomes noticeable after two to four weeks of daily use.
About two to three months with twice-daily use applied by hand.
All Year
Part of Derma Factory's lab-coded single-active range, the PHA treatment was designed as a daily exfoliating step for skin that reacts to glycolic or salicylic acid.
Derma Factory is a Korean skincare brand known for minimalist, percentage-labelled formulas presented in a laboratory-report style, sold mainly online in Korea and through international K-beauty retailers. It has not published independent clinical studies of its products.
PHA toners are too gentle to do anything.
Gluconolactone exfoliates more slowly than AHAs, but at 10 percent and pH 4.0 it measurably smooths texture over weeks with far less irritation.
Birch sap is a powerful active ingredient.
Birch sap is mostly water with small amounts of sugars and minerals. It is a pleasant base, not the main source of the product's benefits.
The label states pH 4.0, which allows the gluconolactone to exfoliate while remaining gentle.
Yes. Its 10 percent PHA is gentle enough for daily use for most skin, including sensitive skin, with daily sunscreen.
PHAs are generally better tolerated than AHAs, so it may suit rosacea-prone skin, but patch test first and stop if redness increases.
No. The label states scent: none, and there are no essential oils or alcohol.
Many people can combine them, but introduce slowly, perhaps using the PHA in the morning and retinol at night.
It may help mild congestion, but salicylic acid is more effective for persistent blackheads.
Recurring themes our editors read across retailer reviews of this product — summaries in our words, not quotations, and not a substitute for your own patch test.
Gentle enough for sensitive skin
Smooths rough texture gradually
Fragrance-free and inexpensive
Slightly tacky finish
Too mild for heavy congestion
Price varies widely between retailers