Hyaluronic Acid Can Actually Dehydrate Your Skin (Here's When)
The internet's favorite hydrator has a counterintuitive dark side — in dry air, a humectant with nothing to seal it can pull water out of your skin instead of into it.
Most foam cleansers strip skin and require immediate moisturizing rescue. This one uses an amino acid surfactant trio instead of sulfates, deposits cationic hyaluronic acid that clings to skin even after rinsing, and includes conditioning agents (panthenol, allantoin) that leave skin softer than before you washed. The PDRN and glutathione extend the line's regenerative and brightening philosophy into the cleansing step.
A thoughtfully formulated amino acid foam cleanser that proves the cleansing step does not have to be a barrier-damaging necessary evil. The gentle surfactant blend, cationic HA, and conditioning agents make this one of the least stripping foam cleansers available, even if the PDRN and glutathione are more marketing continuity than functional game-changers in a rinse-off format.
Note: This foam launched in early 2025 and our assessment is based on very limited real-world data. Our scoring weights ingredient analysis and formulation quality. This review will be refreshed as the product's track record lengthens.
The case for it
What would change this: The same active in a leave-on form would be judged on its evidence rather than its contact time.
Same rule for everyone. “Supporting role” is the verdict on 8,197 of 45,024 concern verdicts across the catalog; rule R6 decided 2,017 of them. Unchanged since September 5, 2026, engine 5.1.1.
Brand or formulator? Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →
The studies behind the evidence row
The case for it
What would change this: A researched evidence row for the lead active would replace this with a verdict.
Same rule for everyone. “Good choice” is the verdict on 1,938 of 45,024 concern verdicts across the catalog; rule F2 decided 1,938 of them. Unchanged since September 5, 2026, engine 5.1.1.
Brand or formulator? Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →
Also listed for Dryness and Compromised Skin Barrier — the actives here (Panthenol (Vitamin B5) are in our research queue for those concerns; there is no verdict until their evidence rows are written. That is a gap in our table, not a mark against the product.
Does the jobDoes what a cleanser is for: surfactant mildness, rinses clean without stripping. Not measured from the label: pH match to skin.
A verdict is DermApproved’s assessment of how well a product’s ingredients fit a concern — never a claim about what the product treats. Evidence dots and collected reviews sit beside it and are never blended in. Rules 0.5.1 · evidence table ev-2026.09-r228 · how we decide
Look at the ingredient list of almost any cleanser on the market and you will see water in first position. It is so universal that most people never think to question it. Then look at this one. Glycerin — the humectant, the skin conditioner, the moisture magnet — sits at the top. Water comes second. That is not an accident of manufacturing. It is a statement about what Anua thinks a cleanser should be: a moisturizing treatment that also happens to wash your face.
The surfactant system backs the claim up. Sodium cocoyl glycinate leads — an amino acid-derived surfactant that foams generously while operating at a gentler pH than the sulfate systems that dominate mass-market cleansers. Sodium lauroyl glutamate and potassium cocoyl glycinate add cleansing power, sodium methyl cocoyl taurate contributes foam without harshness, and lauryl betaine plus a pair of glucosides round the blend out. If you have ever finished a foam cleanser feeling like a dried-out sponge, this is the opposite of that experience, and it is the opposite by design rather than by accident.
The foam dispenses pre-formed from the pump, dense and almost mousse-like. It is substantial in the hand — not the thin, airy bubbles of a conventional foaming wash but a thick cloud that cushions the skin under your fingers. There is a quiet psychological satisfaction in a cleanser rich enough to feel like it is doing something, while being gentle enough that twice-daily use raises no concerns.
The genuine innovation, though, is the cationic hyaluronic acid — hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate. This is a positively charged form of HA engineered to adhere to the negatively charged surface of skin, which means it deposits during the wash and stays there after the rinse. Ordinary hyaluronic acid in a cleanser goes straight down the drain; the quaternized version clings electrostatically, leaving a conditioning film that primes the surface for whatever comes next. It is a clever answer to the fundamental absurdity of putting hydrating ingredients into a product you immediately wash off. Alongside it sit sodium hyaluronate and hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid for the brief contact-time hydration, panthenol for conditioning, allantoin for calming, and arginine, a basic amino acid that buffers the mild acidity of the surfactant blend at the skin's surface. Polyquaternium-67 adds a little more substantivity to the whole conditioning package.
Now, about the PDRN, glutathione and niacinamide on the label. Honesty is the better policy here: in a product that sits on the face for thirty to sixty seconds before being rinsed away, the functional impact of these three is minimal. PDRN needs sustained contact to engage adenosine receptors meaningfully. Glutathione needs time to influence melanin pathways. Niacinamide's benefits accrue with prolonged exposure. These are ingredients that earn their keep in the leave-on products of this line, not in a rinse-off foam. Their presence is line architecture — brand narrative carried across every step — rather than deception, but nobody should buy this cleanser expecting the PDRN benefits the serum delivers. The same goes for the long botanical tail of turmeric, neem, holy basil, coptis and coral algae extracts, which are contact-time-limited in exactly the same way.
What the cleanser does superbly is the job a cleanser actually has: lifting impurities, excess oil and water-soluble debris without disturbing the barrier. The gentleness here is not a marketing adjective; it is a structural consequence of a glycerin-first base, an amino acid surfactant blend, and the complete absence of sulfates, alcohol and fragrance. For dry or sensitive skin that has been burned by foaming washes before, this is a format worth revisiting.
It is less capable as a standalone. Light makeup and a day's grime, yes. Waterproof sunscreen and full-coverage foundation, no — those need an oil cleanser first, and in that double-cleanse sequence this foam is close to an ideal second step, clearing the oil residue while leaving the skin conditioned for toner. Very oily skin may also want more cleansing muscle than this offers, and the lecithin and glyceryl oleate mean it is not fungal-acne safe. The salmon-derived PDRN and hydrolyzed collagen rule it out for vegans.
At $15 for 150ml, the pricing is competitive for an amino acid foam of this construction. One to two pumps per wash stretches the bottle across two to three months of twice-daily use, which puts the daily cost in small change. The caveat worth stating plainly is that the product is new and the independent review base is still tiny — early feedback is warm, but it is early feedback, not a track record.
What Anua has done here is subtle and genuinely useful: built a cleanser that does not work against the rest of the routine. In a market full of foams that strip the skin so the next three products can scramble to repair it, this one hands you off to the toner step with your barrier intact and your face already halfway hydrated. It is not the most exciting product in the line. It may well be the most foundational.
The hero actives that drive this product's performance.
| Ingredient | Function | Evidence |
|---|---|---|
| Amino Acid Surfactant Blend | The cleansing system here is built on sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, and potassium cocoyl glycinate — amino acid-based surfactants that cleanse effectively at a lower pH than traditional sulfate cleansers. This gentle trio dissolves impurities without stripping the lipid barrier that the rest of this formula works to protect. | Not yet assessed |
| PDRN (Sodium DNA) | Salmon-derived polydeoxyribonucleotide included to maintain the PDRN line's regenerative philosophy even in the cleansing step. While rinse-off contact time limits penetration, the PDRN works alongside the conditioning agents to leave a regenerative residue on cleansed skin. | Not yet assessed |
| Triple Hyaluronic Acid | Sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, and hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate — the cationic form that binds to skin even after rinsing — ensure this cleanser deposits moisture rather than stripping it. The cationic HA is particularly important in a rinse-off formula as it electrostatically adheres to skin during the wash. | Established mechanism for Dehydration · established mechanism |
| Panthenol | Provitamin B5 that conditions the skin during the cleansing process, counteracting any potential tightness from surfactant action. Works with allantoin to leave skin feeling soft and calm immediately after rinsing. | Established mechanism for Dehydration · established mechanism |
| Glutathione | An antioxidant tripeptide that adds a brightening dimension to this cleanser. While the rinse-off format limits its skin contact time, glutathione works alongside niacinamide here to provide gentle tone-evening benefits with each wash. | Not yet assessed |
Ingredient standings describe the active at treatment-level doses and vehicles; this product's own condition grades weigh its actual formula.
Glycerin, Water, Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate, Lauryl Betaine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Citric Acid, Sodium Lauroyl Methylaminopropionate, Sodium Chloride, Potassium Cocoate, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyquaternium-67, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Sodium DNA, Arginine, Solanum Melongena (Eggplant) Fruit Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Panthenol, Propanediol, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glutathione, Glyceryl Oleate, Lauryl Glucoside, Myristyl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate
cleanser
AM & PM
Use as your second cleanse in a double-cleansing routine (after oil cleanser in PM) or as your sole cleanser in the morning. Pump onto wet hands, lather gently, massage onto damp face for 30-60 seconds, then rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water.
Immediate clean, hydrated feeling after first use. Reduced tightness and improved post-cleanse comfort within the first week. Cumulative barrier-conditioning benefits over 2-4 weeks of consistent use.
The standout formulation choice in this cleanser is the amino acid surfactant system. Sodium cocoyl glycinate and sodium lauroyl glutamate are both derived from amino acids and produce significantly less irritation than traditional anionic surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS). One trial published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science demonstrated that amino acid-based surfactants maintained skin barrier integrity as measured by transepidermal water loss (TEWL), while SLS-based cleansers caused measurable barrier disruption even at equivalent cleansing efficacy.
The cationic hyaluronic acid — hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate — is a particularly intelligent inclusion for a rinse-off product. Standard hyaluronic acid carries a negative charge at skin pH, meaning it has minimal substantivity (ability to remain on skin after rinsing). The quaternized form carries a permanent positive charge that electrostatically adheres to the negatively charged skin surface, providing sustained hydration even after the wash water carries everything else down the drain. Research has shown that cationic HA demonstrates significantly higher skin deposition rates compared to standard sodium hyaluronate in rinse-off applications.
The glycerin-first approach is noteworthy from a formulation science perspective. At the highest concentration in the formula, glycerin serves as both a humectant that binds water during the cleansing process and as a skin-conditioning agent that reduces the defatting potential of the surfactant system. Studies in Contact Dermatitis have shown that glycerin-enriched cleansers significantly reduce surfactant-induced irritation.
Regarding the PDRN and other treatment actives: while their inclusion maintains the product line's identity, the 30-60 second contact time in a rinse-off application severely limits their bioavailability. The cationic HA may carry trace amounts of co-deposited actives, but consumers should understand that the cleansing and conditioning benefits are the primary functional outcomes of this product.
Dermatologists consistently emphasize that the cleansing step is where most patients damage their skin barrier without realizing it. Dermatologists frequently recommend amino acid-based cleansers over sulfate formulations, particularly for patients with dry, sensitive, or eczema-prone skin. This cleanser's glycerin-first formulation and gentle surfactant blend align well with dermatological recommendations for non-stripping cleansing. Dermatologists would note that while the PDRN and glutathione offer minimal benefit in a rinse-off context, the cationic hyaluronic acid technology represents a meaningful advancement in cleanser formulation — leaving behind a hydrating deposit is the kind of functional innovation that dermatologists appreciate in a cleanser.
Wet your face with lukewarm water. Pump one to two pumps of foam into your hands — the pre-foamed texture means no additional lathering is needed. Gently massage the foam across your face using circular motions for thirty to sixty seconds, paying attention to the T-zone and areas prone to congestion. Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water and pat dry. Use as your sole morning cleanser or as the second step in an evening double-cleanse routine after oil cleansing. Follow immediately with toner while skin is still slightly damp.
At approximately $18 for 150ml, this cleanser is well-priced for an amino acid surfactant formula with cationic HA technology. The pre-foaming pump means one to two pumps per wash, stretching the bottle to two to three months of twice-daily use — roughly 30 cents per day. While you can find basic gentle cleansers for less, the cationic HA deposition, glycerin-first base, and conditioning profile justify the modest premium over drugstore foam cleansers. The PDRN and glutathione add minimal functional value in a rinse-off product but do not significantly inflate the price either.
Dry and sensitive skin types who want a foam cleanser that will not strip their skin. Anyone building a full Anua PDRN routine who wants a coordinated cleansing step. Double-cleansing enthusiasts seeking a gentle second cleanser. Those who have given up on foam cleansers after too many stripping experiences and want to give the format another chance.
Very oily skin types who need stronger cleansing power. Anyone relying on their cleanser to remove waterproof sunscreen or heavy makeup without a prior oil cleanse. Budget-conscious consumers who prioritize actives in leave-on products where they deliver more value.
Ready to try Anua PDRN Hyaluronic Acid Moisturizing Cleansing Foam?
Buy at Amazon ♥Rich, dense foam that dispenses from a pump — creates a thick, cloud-like lather that feels creamy rather than airy on the skin
Unscented — no detectable fragrance
Pump-action bottle that dispenses pre-foamed cleanser, eliminating the need to work up a lather manually; the 150ml tube provides controlled dispensing
The first pump dispenses a surprisingly dense, creamy foam. On the face, it feels like a gentle cushion rather than a stripping detergent. After rinsing, skin feels clean without any tightness or squeakiness — a departure from many foam cleansers. The cationic hyaluronic acid leaves a subtle conditioning residue that preps skin for the next step.
2-3 months applied morning and night (one to two pumps per wash)
All Year
Anua designed this cleanser as the entry point to their PDRN routine — recognizing that barrier damage during cleansing undermines everything the toner, serum, and mist work to build. By using amino acid surfactants and depositing cationic HA during the wash, the cleanser preps the skin to absorb the subsequent PDRN products more effectively.
Anua was founded in 2019 and has grown rapidly as a K-beauty brand, available in all 1,500 Ulta Beauty stores. The brand's PDRN line has earned Olive Young Awards recognition and the Hwahae Beauty Awards for best new product.
Foam cleansers are always too harsh for sensitive skin.
Traditional foam cleansers using sodium lauryl sulfate can indeed be stripping. This formula uses amino acid-based surfactants (sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate) that create rich foam while maintaining a skin-friendly pH and preserving the lipid barrier.
Active ingredients like PDRN and glutathione are wasted in a rinse-off product.
While contact time is limited, the cationic hyaluronic acid in this formula is specifically designed to bind to skin even after rinsing. Some conditioning actives do deposit and remain on skin during the wash process — the benefit is reduced compared to leave-on products, but not zero.
Yes — the formula uses amino acid-based surfactants (sodium cocoyl glycinate, sodium lauroyl glutamate) instead of sulfates like SLS or SLES. This creates rich foam while being significantly gentler on the skin barrier.
Honestly, the PDRN and glutathione have limited functional benefit in a rinse-off product due to the brief 30-60 second contact time. The real value of this cleanser lies in its amino acid surfactants, cationic hyaluronic acid (which deposits and stays on skin after rinsing), and glycerin-first conditioning base.
It handles light makeup, daily grime, and non-waterproof sunscreen well. For waterproof sunscreen or heavy makeup, use an oil cleanser first, then follow with this foam as your second cleanse. It excels as a gentle second step in a double-cleansing routine.
Glycerin as the first ingredient means it is the highest-concentration component in the formula. This prioritizes skin conditioning and moisture preservation during the cleansing process, reducing the potential for the surfactants to strip the skin barrier.
The gentle amino acid surfactants cleanse without over-stripping, which is important for acne-prone skin that can overproduce sebum in response to harsh cleansers. However, if you need stronger acne-fighting ingredients like salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, pair this with a targeted treatment serum rather than expecting the cleanser to address breakouts directly.
Cationic hyaluronic acid (hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate) carries a positive electrical charge that makes it stick to skin even after rinsing, unlike regular HA which washes away. This means the cleanser deposits a moisture-binding layer during your wash that remains and preps skin for your toner and serum.
Recurring themes our editors read across retailer reviews of this product — summaries in our words, not quotations, and not a substitute for your own patch test.
Does not leave skin feeling tight or stripped
Rich, dense foam texture
Pairs well with the rest of the PDRN line
Gentle enough for morning and evening use
May not remove heavy makeup or sunscreen alone
PDRN and actives have limited benefit in a rinse-off product
Foam can be very dense — a little goes a long way