Hyaluronic Acid Gets the Ad Budget. Glycerin Does the Work.
The cheapest humectant on the ingredient list is also the best-studied, the most reliable in dry air, and the one your favorite moisturizer is quietly built around.
It is built around a remarkable 50% glycerin — the source of the 'Gleanser' name — so it hydrates the skin while cleansing rather than stripping it. Beyond that, it pairs an aquaporin-supporting complex, which targets the skin's own water channels, with a prebiotic and soothing botanicals. It is a cleanser engineered to leave skin better hydrated than it found it.
An exceptionally gentle, genuinely non-drying cleanser — built around a remarkable 50% glycerin, with an aquaporin-supporting complex, a prebiotic and soothing botanicals. Fragrance-free, sulfate-free, and engineered to leave skin more hydrated than it found it. A quietly excellent, fairly priced everyday cleanser.
Note: Prequel is a recent brand and our assessment combines ingredient analysis with a growing body of real-world feedback. This review will be refreshed as the product's track record lengthens.
The case for it
What would change this: A researched evidence row for the lead active would replace this with a verdict.
Same rule for everyone. “Good choice” is the verdict on 1,938 of 45,024 concern verdicts across the catalog; rule F2 decided 1,938 of them. Unchanged since September 5, 2026, engine 5.1.1.
Brand or formulator? Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →
The case for it
What would change this: The same active in a leave-on form would be judged on its evidence rather than its contact time.
Same rule for everyone. “Supporting role” is the verdict on 8,197 of 45,024 concern verdicts across the catalog; rule R6 decided 2,017 of them. Unchanged since September 5, 2026, engine 5.1.1.
Brand or formulator? Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →
The studies behind the evidence row
The case for it
What would change this: The same active in a leave-on form would be judged on its evidence rather than its contact time.
Same rule for everyone. “Supporting role” is the verdict on 8,197 of 45,024 concern verdicts across the catalog; rule R6 decided 2,017 of them. Unchanged since September 5, 2026, engine 5.1.1.
Brand or formulator? Disclose a concentration or correct a fact →
The studies behind the evidence row
Also listed for Compromised Skin Barrier — the actives here (Glycerin, Humectants, Aloe Vera) are in our research queue for that concern; there is no verdict until their evidence rows are written. That is a gap in our table, not a mark against the product.
Does the jobDoes what a cleanser is for: surfactant mildness, rinses clean without stripping. Not measured from the label: pH match to skin.
A verdict is DermApproved’s assessment of how well a product’s ingredients fit a concern — never a claim about what the product treats. Evidence dots and collected reviews sit beside it and are never blended in. Rules 0.5.1 · evidence table ev-2026.09-r228 · how we decide
Most thinking about cleansers is, sensibly, defensive. A good cleanser is judged by what it does not do: does not strip, does not leave skin tight, does not disrupt the barrier. The bar sits at 'do no harm,' because cleansing — the act of using surfactants to lift away oil — is inherently a little destructive, and most cleansers either clear that low bar or fail it. The Prequel Gleanser is interesting because it is built on a more ambitious premise: that a cleanser can do better than not-harm, that the rinse-off step can leave skin in a more hydrated state than it started. Whether you find that premise convincing depends on what is actually in the bottle, so it is worth a proper look.
The name itself is the first clue. 'Gleanser' fuses 'glycerin' and 'cleanser,' and it is no idle wordplay — glycerin is the first ingredient on the list, at a stated 50%. Half the formula. That is an extraordinary level of glycerin for a cleanser; most contain a token amount, if any. Glycerin is a humectant, drawing and binding water, and at 50% it fundamentally changes what the cleanser does to your skin. Rather than the surfactants stripping moisture out unopposed, the glycerin is simultaneously flooding the skin with water-binding capacity. The surfactants themselves — cocamidopropyl betaine and a cocoamphodiacetate — are mild, sulfate-free, the gentle end of the spectrum. The cleansing still happens, but it happens inside a bath of glycerin, and skin is left soft and conditioned instead of squeaky.
Beyond the glycerin sits the more novel, more interesting element: the aquaporin angle. Aquaporins are a genuine piece of skin biology — tiny protein channels embedded in skin-cell membranes, whose job is to shuttle water between cells and distribute hydration through the skin. The Gleanser includes glyceryl glucoside and a dihydroxypropyl arginine derivative, ingredients studied for supporting aquaporin expression and activity. This is a different idea from humectancy. A humectant adds water from outside; an aquaporin-supporting active aims to help the skin manage and move its own water internally. To be honest about the evidence, this is an emerging area — promising research rather than decades of proof — so it belongs on the label as a thoughtful, science-forward inclusion, not a guaranteed result. But it is a genuine corner of skin science, not marketing vapour, and it reflects the dermatologist-developed seriousness of the brand. There is also inulin, a prebiotic to support the skin microbiome — a sensible touch, since cleansing is exactly the step that disrupts the skin's surface ecosystem — plus aloe and oat for soothing.
Used at the sink, the Gleanser delivers on its premise. It is a light gel producing a soft, low, gentle lather — and here is the one expectation to set: if you equate a big foamy lather with cleanliness, this will feel modest. That is by design; aggressive foam means aggressive surfactants. It rinses clean, and the after-feel is the whole point — skin feels genuinely clean but soft, conditioned, comfortable, with none of the tightness. For sensitive, dry or reactive skin, that is exactly right; oily skin will find it comfortable too.
What also stands out, the longer you use it, is consistency. A cleanser is the step you repeat twice a day, every day, and a gentle one only proves its worth over weeks of not quietly eroding the barrier the way a harsher wash would. Skin that tends to feel tight and flaky by mid-morning after cleansing simply stops doing that. Combination skin gets clean without the oily zones being stripped into rebound shine. And the option to choose the salicylic or glycolic versions means a household can settle on one base it trusts and still tailor the formula to different faces. For the most-used, least-glamorous step in skincare, that reliability is the whole point.
Its limits are the ordinary boundaries of a gentle cleanser. It will not take off heavy makeup or sunscreen alone, so at night it works best as the second step of a double cleanse rather than a standalone wash. The plain version carries no exfoliating actives — though Prequel sensibly offers the same gentle base in salicylic acid and glycolic acid versions, so exfoliation is available without giving up the formula. And the aquaporin benefit, as noted, rests on emerging rather than settled evidence, so it is best treated as a bonus rather than the reason to buy.
At around sixteen dollars, value is good — a dermatologist-developed, fragrance-free, genuinely non-drying cleanser, fungal-acne safe, at an accessible price. To sum up: the Gleanser makes good on its slightly ambitious promise. It is not merely a cleanser that fails to harm your skin — it is one engineered, through an unusual quantity of glycerin and a genuinely interesting hydration-support angle, to leave your skin a little better than it found it. For anyone whose skin runs dry, sensitive or easily stripped, that is a genuinely worthwhile thing for the most basic step of a routine to do.
The hero actives that drive this product's performance.
| Ingredient | Function | Evidence |
|---|---|---|
| Glycerin (50%) (50%) | Listed first, at a stated 50% — an extraordinary level for a cleanser, and the source of the 'Gleanser' name. As a humectant it draws and holds water, so this cleanser hydrates the skin while it cleans, the opposite of the stripping most cleansers cause. | Established mechanism for Dryness · established mechanism |
| Glyceryl Glucoside | An aquaporin-supporting active — with dihydroxypropyl arginine, it is studied for encouraging the skin's aquaporins, the cell's own water channels. Rather than only adding water from outside, it aims to help the skin move and hold water internally. | Not yet assessed |
| Inulin | A plant-derived prebiotic that helps support a healthy balance of the skin's microbiome — a thoughtful inclusion in a cleanser, since cleansing is the step that can most disrupt the skin's surface ecosystem. | Not yet assessed |
| Aloe Vera (Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice) | A soothing botanical that, with oat kernel flour, calms the skin during cleansing — reinforcing the gentle, non-irritating character of a cleanser built for sensitive and dry skin. | Established mechanism for Dehydration · measured |
Ingredient standings describe the active at treatment-level doses and vehicles; this product's own condition grades weigh its actual formula.
Glycerin, Water (Aqua), Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Sodium Chloride, Inulin, Dihydroxypropyl Arginine HCl, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Glyceryl Glucoside, Polyquaternium-10, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Lecithin, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide
cleanser
AM & PM
Use morning and evening as your cleanser step. Massage a small amount over damp skin, then rinse with lukewarm water. In the evening, it works well as the second step of a double cleanse, after an oil cleanser or balm removes makeup and sunscreen.
Immediate: skin feels clean, soft and comfortable — never tight or stripped — from the first use. Consistent use supports a calmer, well-hydrated, better-maintained barrier over time.
This cleanser is a well-constructed example of low-irritation, hydration-focused formulation. Its surfactants — cocamidopropyl betaine and disodium cocoamphodiacetate — are mild relative to anionic sulfate surfactants, and milder surfactant systems are linked to less stratum corneum and barrier disruption. The defining feature is the stated 50% glycerin; glycerin is one of the most extensively evidenced humectants, and at this level it substantially offsets the moisture loss inherent to cleansing, leaving skin measurably more comfortable.
The aquaporin component is the more novel element. Aquaporins, particularly aquaporin-3 in the skin, are membrane channel proteins that move water, and glycerol, between epidermal cells and are genuinely involved in skin hydration. Glyceryl glucoside has research support for upregulating aquaporin-3 expression, and dihydroxypropyl arginine is included for related hydration support. This is a legitimate, scientifically grounded area, though the clinical evidence for topical aquaporin-targeting in a rinse-off cleanser specifically is emerging rather than established. Inulin is a prebiotic with developing evidence for supporting the skin microbiome; aloe and oat add soothing properties.
The formulation is fragrance-free and free of sulfates and added alcohol — choices consistent with minimizing irritation. The realistic outcome is effective, genuinely non-drying everyday cleansing that leaves skin hydrated and comfortable; the high glycerin content is the well-evidenced workhorse, with the aquaporin-support actives a promising, science-forward addition. Its scope is cleansing — it carries no treatment actives and does not remove heavy makeup or sunscreen on its own.
Dermatology consistently recommends gentle, non-stripping, sulfate-free cleansers, and a formula built on mild surfactants with a very high glycerin content aligns closely with that guidance — clinicians frequently note that the post-cleanse 'tight' feeling signals barrier disruption and that a cleanser should leave skin comfortable, which a heavily humectant formula supports. Aquaporin-3 is a genuine and recognized contributor to epidermal hydration, and ingredients studied for supporting it, such as glyceryl glucoside, are viewed with cautious interest, though dermatologists would note the evidence for aquaporin-targeting in topical products, particularly rinse-off ones, is still developing. Fragrance-free formulation is preferred for sensitive and reactive skin, and prebiotic and soothing botanical additions are regarded as low-risk and reasonable. Clinicians generally view the cleanser as the step where gentleness matters most, and would consider this a sound, low-irritation choice for most skin, including sensitive and dry skin. The standard guidance applies: cleanse twice daily with lukewarm water, double cleanse in the evening if wearing makeup or sunscreen, and follow with moisturizer and daily sunscreen.
Reach for it morning and evening. Work a small amount over damp skin, massage gently across the face, then rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. In the evening, if you have worn makeup or sunscreen, treat it as the second step of a double cleanse, following an oil cleanser or cleansing balm that has lifted the makeup and SPF. Carry on with the rest of your routine afterward — serums, moisturizer, and sunscreen in the morning. Skip hot water, which is drying in its own right.
At around $16, the Gleanser is good value — a dermatologist-developed, fragrance-free, genuinely non-drying cleanser at an accessible price, in keeping with Prequel's affordable positioning. With twice-daily use a bottle lasts roughly two to three months, and larger sizes are available for better per-use economy. Compared with gentle hydrating cleansers from mid-range and prestige brands, which often run $20 to $40, the pricing is competitive, and few match its 50% glycerin content. The variant system adds value too: the same gentle base is available with salicylic or glycolic acid, so a buyer can match the formula to their needs without trading away the non-drying quality. For a reliable, gentle everyday cleanser, the value is straightforwardly strong.
Anyone after a genuinely gentle, non-drying everyday cleanser is well served here — it suits sensitive, dry, normal and combination skin especially, works fine for oily skin, and makes an excellent second step in a double cleanse. It is a particularly sound choice for anyone whose skin feels tight or stripped after washing.
Anyone who wants a single cleanser to remove heavy makeup and sunscreen alone should pair it with an oil cleanser or choose a dedicated makeup remover. Those who want a cleanser with exfoliating actives should consider Prequel's salicylic or glycolic acid versions instead, and foam-lovers may find the gentle lather underwhelming.
A lightweight gel that spreads easily over damp skin with a soft, low, gentle lather. It rinses away cleanly, leaving a notably soft, conditioned, never-tight finish.
Carries no added fragrance, just a slight neutral note that dissipates quickly.
Pump bottle in Prequel's clean, modern design, with larger and variant options available. The pump dispenses easily and keeps the cleanser hygienic.
First use stands out for the after-feel — the gel produces a soft, gentle lather, rinses clean, and leaves skin feeling genuinely clean but soft and comfortable, with none of the tight, squeaky, stripped sensation many cleansers give. There is no scent and no sting.
morning and night makes one last about 2-3 months
All Year
Prequel, founded by dermatologist Dr. Samantha Ellis, built the Gleanser around the idea that cleansing should not cost the skin its moisture. The name fuses 'glycerin' and 'cleanser,' and the brand offers it in plain, salicylic acid and glycolic acid versions so the same gentle base can suit different needs.
Prequel is a skincare brand founded in 2022 by Dr. Samantha Ellis, a board-certified dermatologist, positioned as accessible, science-based dermatologist-developed skincare. As a recent brand its long-term track record is still limited, but its formulations are genuinely derm-developed.
A cleanser only needs to not strip the skin — it cannot actually hydrate.
Most cleansers are at best neutral and at worst stripping, because they rinse off. But a cleanser loaded with humectants — here 50% glycerin — and water-channel-supporting actives can leave the skin measurably more hydrated and comfortable than before. A cleanser can do more than simply not harm; this one is designed to.
Aquaporin skincare is just a fancy name for a moisturizer.
Aquaporins are real protein channels in skin cells that move water between them. Some ingredients, like glyceryl glucoside, are studied for supporting aquaporin activity — a different mechanism than a humectant pulling water from the air. It is a genuine, if still emerging, area of skin science, not just rebranding.
It is a non-drying gel cleanser built around a remarkable 50% glycerin — hence the name, a blend of 'glycerin' and 'cleanser.' Gentle sulfate-free surfactants clean the skin while the high glycerin, an aquaporin-supporting complex, a prebiotic and soothing botanicals leave it hydrated and comfortable rather than stripped.
Aquaporins are protein channels in skin cells that move water between them. The Gleanser includes glyceryl glucoside and dihydroxypropyl arginine, studied for supporting aquaporin activity — a way of helping the skin manage its own internal water, distinct from a humectant simply drawing in moisture. It is a genuine but still-emerging area of skin science.
Yes — it is well suited to it. The formula is fragrance-free, sulfate-free, exceptionally gentle, and packed with hydrating glycerin and soothing aloe and oat. It cleans without stripping, leaving skin soft and comfortable, which makes it one of the better cleansers for sensitive, dry and reactive skin.
It cleanses light, everyday wear, but it is not designed to remove heavy makeup or sunscreen on its own. In the evening, use it as the second step of a double cleanse — after an oil cleanser or balm — for a thorough but gentle result.
Prequel offers the Gleanser in three versions on the same gentle, glycerin-rich base: the plain Gleanser, a Gleanser with salicylic acid for congestion-prone skin, and a Gleanser with glycolic acid for texture and tone. The plain version reviewed here is the gentlest, with no exfoliating actives.
Recurring themes our editors read across retailer reviews of this product — summaries in our words, not quotations, and not a substitute for your own patch test.
Genuinely non-drying — skin feels clean but never tight or stripped
Exceptionally gentle, comfortable for sensitive and dry skin
Fragrance-free, sulfate-free and soothing
Available with added salicylic or glycolic acid for more options
Light, low lather may feel underwhelming to foam lovers
Does not remove heavy makeup or sunscreen on its own
The aquaporin-support claim rests on emerging evidence
Straightforward gentle cleanser with no exfoliating actives